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Well it's over. I feel a little peculiar but visiting with EJ and Joy is
helping to normalize me. Today we went to the beach and I took pictures of
them surfing (in wet suits) so it was something really different. Also
eating out in downtown Savannah has been fun.
The end of the hike was not
without some drama. EJ, due to coming from the other end of GA and being
bogged down in fog, the shuttle guy getting lost etc. didn't meet me until
8:30 PM for our night hike of three miles up Blood Mt. We started in pea
soup fog, transitioned to rain half way up and ended up almost at the summit
in a full out thunderstorm. Actually my first summit thunderstorm of the
hike.
Had no real choice but to stay at Blood Mt shelter (and yes Steve, it
is a pit). It's a 1930s CCC stone building, now rat infested with glassless
windows which allow the rain and mist to waft in making sure nothing is less
wet then when you entered. The next two nights were bitterly cold, in the
20s, but our finish was in the sun which was great. You just turn a corner
and suddenly there is the plaque on the rock. Had time for some fun pictures
before the sun went back behind the clouds.
We then spent the night at the
Hike Inn, a luxury Inn/hostel half way down the approach trail. The manager
was a thru hiker as were his grown children and he gave a program on the
trail that night so there was a lot of story swapping. A good way to end!
The final 6 miles out was done in the pouring rain, temp in the mid 30s.
Time to stop hiking and live la dolcha vita. Thanks to all my supportive
friends, hope to see everyone soon!
This is my second to last chapter in the hiking saga. I am in Neels Gap 31
miles from Springer. I "marched thru Georgia" pretty quickly from Franklyn.
Four brutally cold days and then this morning it warmed up just enough for a
heavy rain.I arrived soaked and cranky, but here I am safe and dry in a nice
hostel which is very eccentric and fun. I could bust for Springer in two
days but am extending slightly to accommodate Jed's arrival. He has a dental
appt Monday so will be getting here Monday night when we will hike in 3
miles to Bloody Mt Shelter, then a short day in the rain, a medium day in
the sun and a sunny finish and on down the approach trail to the hostel
there.
So it will be about 5 days before we head out to Savannah. Hard to
believe it is finally almost over. One thing I am eager to put behind me are
the mice that dwell in the shelters. Last night a mouse ate my toilet paper.
I had braved the rain to hang the food from a bear cable but wanted to keep
the TP handy. So much for that idea.
To add insult to injury a pack rat
stole my reading glasses. This is not a joke. It is the second time it has
happened to me. I leave the glasses lying on the floor beside me because I
want to be able to read my map and guide in the morning and when I wake up
they are gone. The first time it happened in Maine I just assumed that I had
flipped them out when I shook out my ground cloth but this time I looked for
them immediately and did an exhaustive search of my pack, sleeping bag and
the shelter (I was alone). It is not that big an area, so ergo a thief. I am
now on my fifth pair of reading glasses, just that part of the trip would
make a novel.
But no more whining, the end is in sight and EJ will be
bringing goodies. I am about to sit back and watch TV while eating chips and
salsa, the simple pleasures. Looking forward to seeing you all very much,
hope the last storm didn't put too much snow on the ground (I know you
X-country skiers are panting at the bit but I just want a little touch of
Fall sunshine to greet me in SS.)
Well North Carolina just keeps going on. Actually I have slowed down a good
bit. Since we only seem to have two days between big rain events, I am in my
third zero (day off) day since Fontana Damn.
Tomorrow I bite the bullet and make a 5 day run for Neels Gap where I will meet EJ for the last three days
into Springer. This will put me up to about the 17th but so what, shivering
in the shelter at 42degrees with the rain pouring down isn't much fun and it
looks like after tomorrow I have a pretty good run of weather with only a
light "wintry mix" three days out. I guess I shouldn't have expected
beautiful weather in December but it seems like three years of drought in GA
and NC are being erased at the expense of my hiking comfort. I also have
decided to give up on expecting the easy part of the trip.
The Nantahala Mts have been only slightly lower than the Smokies and I more snow fell there.
Only an inch but it was cold enough to stick the following day. After a few
more 5,000 footers I will be down in the 4,000 ft range in Georgia. There is
no flat ground here. I actually finished my 17 mile day with 2 relatively flat
miles and it was like a gift from the gods.
I have sent Spoonful on ahead.
Aside from the fact that his planned end date was earlier than mine, I have
felt for the last two weeks that I was losing control of my hike, being
managed and "assisted" along the way. Not my style. I may blunder along but
I want it to be my own blunders and decisions. I have some beautiful
pictures of hoer frost. The winter landscape can be dreary but occasionally
it sparkles. Eager to see everyone, hopefully the next update in five days
will be from the G State.
Finally at a library which isn't about to close so can rattle on about my
adventures in the Smokies. First of all the Smokies even with no leaves on
the trees or flowers, are very beautiful, and I love this park. The good
news is that the Appalachian trail here is not steep. On a scale of one to 10
with Wildcat NH being ten, these are about a three with half the trail
accessible to horses.
However it is ALL about the weather here.
You are constantly over 4,000 and go up over 6,000 on a few occasions, as high as it
gets in the east (except for Mt. Mitchell)so anything goes. We started at
Davenport Gap shelter at only around 3,000 in beautiful weather and I felt
that all was going to be well but when I called EJ he told me that Snow was
expected the next night (Thanksgiving). This was worrisome on many levels
not the least of which was that we were meeting him at the parking lot on
Rte 441 at the top of the pass. This road is closed in heavy snow. Anyway,
fingers crossed, we headed to Trycorner Knob shelter. Snow started lightly
mid afternoon and continued to the shelter which has a resident Guinea Hen
(my only exotic sighting on the whole trip). This creature lives off scraps
but doesn't always allow you to finish before diving in.
Anyway the snow
continued thru the night and it was very cold. Shelter mates had built a
fire and the Smokies shelters have tarps but it was COLD. Fortunately the
next day was sunny and only about an inch of snow had accumulated. We went
on to Ice water Spring Shelter which is 3 miles from the pass and near
Charley's Bunion. This shelter has a fireplace inside the lean-to behind the
tarp which was a great joy as the temperature really plummeted.
In the
morning after the sun came up, Spoonful noted that it had warmed up to 32. We
had to sleep with water bottles in the sleeping bags to have water available
for the morning (springs were running ok). While we all piously hung our
food on the bear cables ,one teenager slept with a half pound of precooked
bacon in his bag for snacking. Fortunately it was too cold for bears.
EJs arrival day turned out to be absolutely beautiful and sunny. There was some
ice on the shady parts of the trail but nothing drastic. All of a sudden a
million day trippers showed up. The parking lot in the pass looked like
Jones Beach on July 4. Among all the glitter were two ragamuffins with packs
standing under the sign which urges folks to exercise their First Amendment
right to free speech. We were already a spectacle so didn't bother to say
anything controversial.
EJ and Joy got lost but eventually showed up after
many folks had come up to us and chatted. Southerners are very friendly and
chatty.(I must note that the last month has been like a triumphal
procession for me. Everyone asks me where I started and when I say Maine
they all congratulate me. It is very heartwarming.) A former hiker gave us
food.
When the kids finally arrived it was glorious. They had huge
containers of Jennifer's turkey, stuffing, and apple pie, plus some sweet
potatoes that EJ had made himself. We stuffed ourselves and then EJ joined
us for the second half of the high adventure, bidding farewell to Joy who
had seven hours of driving ahead of her.
We had a short day of beautiful
sunshine and another pretty good day with increasing clouds but the third
day the rain that was supposed to clear up at noon, did not, only got
harder. It ranked among one of the most unpleasant days on the trail with
the temperature hovering just above freezing and a nasty wind keeping things
interesting. Eventually everyone's rain gear failed and both EJ and Spoonful
were very cold. Spoonful had to start running the last six miles. I was
saved somewhat by rain pants and a light fleece but as EJ and I stumped along
with his feet getting sore and his legs turning to ice I had some dark
moments. We made it to the shelter and got into dry clothes, had warm food
and got into sleeping bags and all was well. The temperature plunged so that
the wet clothes all froze.
Poor EJ, we had almost made it thru without bad
weather! Next day was nice and once everyone's boots unfroze we were
comfortable coming down into Fontana Damn where the vision of the car was
like Shangri-La. We drove into Bryson city and had Mexican food, the guys
had good beer and I had a Margareta. What a pleasure to enjoy good food and
drink after things are really bad.
Today EJ returned to Savanna swearing
that he had had a great time and ready to finish the last few days with me
in another week or two. I am taking a down day as it is raining again, but
tomorrow and the next day sound ok so it is on to Franklin in 5 days for
resupply. Its never over till the Fat Lady Sings but she's tuning up. Look
forward to seeing you all. Thanks for the supportive emails!
In
Hot Springs, NC.
Good computer but the library is closing in 15 min.I plan to take a day here
as tomorrow is rain al day and we are in a lovely hostel (an old mansion
with a real victorian feel). I may get back on computer tomorrow but in case
I don't, things are really coming to a head.
I have 270 miles to go and am
looking at a mid Dec finish, then relaxation at EJ and Joy's place in
Savannah and north for Christmas with either them or Jenn and Rich as all my
kids are driving north for the holidays.
Decided yesterday I a ready to be
finished. Weather is very cold at night. We had two nights of icy fog just
hovering over freezing plus the last few shelters were quite squalid with a
few desperate and bold mice in residence. One ran over my head a couple of
times and ate my bandana.
Next night I put up the tent in the shelter and
last night tented outside so I wouldn't hear the patter of little feet. Am
enjoying a day off in Hot Springs NC. where the weather is beautiful.
EJ will join us for the last three days of the Smokies so I am hyped about that.
Fingers crossed that the weather will not be too bad (anything but ice or
heavy snow is ok.) Thanks to you all for your supportive emails. I miss my
friends and look forward to celebrating with you all after New Year's or
perhaps on New Years?
Only 350 miles to go!
Must rush. Finally have computer but am timed. Took 5 min to make the thing
work. Had a bad three days when Ida (hurricane) passed thru. One all day
rain with a night in a squalid hut with a homeless guy. My friend Spoonful
is still with me which helps when meeting odd balls.
The last three days have been beautiful, really too hot.
We did some beautiful Balds and went
over Rhone Mt. over 6000 ft. Biggest Mt since Washington. It was a good thing
that the rain was earlier as very exposed on the Balds.
Now in Erwin, TN.
staying at Uncle Johnny's a famous hostel. Looking forward to a good dinner in town. I am now 350 mi from Springer and weather permitting hope to finish mid Dec.
Really pounding out the miles, getting up in the dark and hiking the first
half hour with the headlamp.
Will be in Hot Springs in a week if this rain
doesn't turn out to be too bad, really cold and miserable during the
Hurricane event. Heard 5 inches fell in town. Sorry don't have time to read
all the emails, maybe next time.
At the moment I am in danger of being timed out. Next update from Hot Springs.
Love to all.
After a long silence, finally a new update from Jean - 452 miles left to go.
This is ej transcribing for mom by phone....
Sorry for long silence, no internet in Atkins, nor cell phone. Great ten
days of hiking, beautiful, cool, sometimes cold, sunny weather. Saw the
wild ponies at Mt Rodgers State Park, very cute.
Had a another domestic
animal adventure; in Mt Rodger's shelter, we three thru hikers claimed
first floor, and two guys with large unfriendly German shepherd took the
loft. Dog was restless, in the middle of the night jumped or fell out of
hatch and almost landed on me. Dog unhurt, and was called back to loft.
See headline "Thru hiker's dream crushed by falling dog" or something like
that.
Am saying goodbye to Mike today, has family commitments and must
leave trail. Looks like Spoonful, a 30 year old Jewish hiker from Maine,
may hang with me a while longer, my deadline is Dec 20th, his is first day
of Hanukkah, five days earlier. Leaving tomorrow for Tenn., as I go
south, mountains get higher. Happy Veteran's day, next update from
Elk Park, NC.
This is ej transcribing for mom by phone...
Hi all, no internet so transcribe, good trip here, first frost. Will be
six days to next destination, Atkins, VA. Met a nice male section hiker
from VA two days ago, he's heading for Damascus, so we're hiking together
for next ten days. Feel safer and enjoy the company.
Leaves mostly off
the trees, have seen no Paw Paw fruit. Apparently out of season. Feeling
good, today crossed the New River, which is interesting as its the oldest
river in North America, predating the Appalachians and flowing west to the
Mississippi. Happy Halloween!
Finally a good computer. I am staying at the Super 8 where I just showered,
did laundry, ate a big meal at the Mexican restaurant and shopped, very
productive. Weather wise, I have been to hell and back. Rain came in the day
after I left Waynesboro (named for Mad Anthony Wayne of Revolutionary War
fame). It got cold and nasty. Fortunately that was a short day for me but
spent a shivery afternoon at the shelter and then had to hike the next day 9
hrs in rain with temps in the low 40's.(I once swore I would never hike in
that kind of weather).Fortunately with the weather that cold I could bundle
up and not sweat(careful pacing) so managed to stay mostly dry but it was no
fun.
Next day damp and dreary and I had damp boots. Next day started to
improve but still cold. Met platoons of boy scouts as it was the weekend.
They all seemed perplexed by the cold. Leaders were nervous. One leader told
me that snow was expected that night. That day I climbed my first "Bald"
(area at top of Mt kept grassy and treeless with mowing grazing etc.). It
was stunning, absolutely superb view in all directions, but had to hurry on,
no gamboling in lawn, as it was very cold and threatening. The shelter I was
headed for turned out to be a half mile off the trail, down hill. I cursed
every step and swore that if it was infested with teenage boys, I would get
my water and hike back to the white blazes and set up the tent. Thankfully
it was empty because when I did my three o'clock reply to the call of nature
white flakes were falling.
The next morning there was a dusting of snow. It
was pretty at least, a sugar coating over all the colorful leaves on the
ground. I had an immediate climb of 500 ft to the 4,000 level but snow only
increased to about a half inch. Next night, still cold, I stayed in the
Punchbowl Shelter which is supposed to be haunted by a little 5 year old boy
who was collecting wood for his school in 1891 and wandered off, only to be
found in the Spring frozen to death at the top of Bluff Mt. (a substantial
climb as I did it next day and saw his memorial). Anyway the ghost kid did
not make an appearance while I was at the shelter, maybe having frozen to
death he prefers warm weather haunting. I shared the shelter that night with
a dweeby young man who was on the cell phone longer than it takes trees to
grow. It would have taken a really loud moaning, chain clanking ghost to
catch his attention.
To answer Ray's question, there are still some folks
out there hiking, doing sections. I have met some nice folks and some less
friendly sorts in the shelters. I also encounter day hikers in these lovely
accessible hills. Anyway, after 4 cold rainy days the wheel turned and the
weather got beautiful again. Yesterday I was hiking along the Blue Ridge
Parkway and saw the sign for the Peaks of Otter and much other spectacular
scenery. Also a woman waiting for her biking husband gave me food, making it
a red letter day.
Today I was glad to be at the motel early since the temp
this afternoon is 76. Better hold onto the bug dope a little longer. For
Ruth, I think I have seen paw paw trees. I certainly saw some mighty big
leaves but have encountered no fruit so far. I will be on the lookout. All
Sep nuts of one kind or another were falling intermittently making it seem
like something large was lurking in the woods just out of sight, also when
they fell on the roof of the shelter it sounded like a bowling ball crashing
down. Now that's finished and we have falling leaves which when the wind
first comes up sound like something large is out there in the woods,
scuffing around.
Have come to love listening to the wind, it never blows
steadily but comes in waves like the ocean. It really does sigh and when it
first starts the trees make all sorts of funny tweeks and whines and other
peculiar sounds so you can see why people in these remote areas believe in
ghosts. Have got to shut up sometime but just one more thing. On one of the
very cold nights when I got up, I was dazzled stars were twice their normal
size. It was like looking at a whole sky of planets, as if the universe had
moved a step closer. Ah wilderness, if it wasn't for the rain I might never
come back.
Happy Halloween! Next update Perrisburg.
Pearisburg, VA.
To answer Lorraine, might not be in Tenn. till mid Nov. I still have a few
100 to go in Virginia. Will have a better estimate on next update.
I ran in here to use the computer before someone else got it and didn't
have my hiker's companion with me. My next stop for those following the
map is Pearisburg, VA. Sounds like Perrysburg but spelled differently. Also
note for Lorraine, I should be in Damascus, VA the last stop in the state,
on about Nov 8 then on to northern Tenn.
I am leaving beautiful Shenandoah park behind and will miss all those
beautiful "wayside" food stops but must hike on to GA. Also goodbye to
perfect weather as rain is coming in tomorrow, just in time for me to
climb The Priest, my first 4,000 footer since the Moose in Maine. I was told
that it is a well graded trail, no scrambling, so won't worry too much.
I am staying in my second Waynesboro of the trip (who was Wayne anyway?) Just
went to Ming's all you can eat buffet and had about seven plate loads (but
some of it was fruit and sushi). Anyway I am ready to hit middle Virginia
tomorrow, rain or no.
This computer seems a little tired so won't linger.
I saw my third bear, another small one who came out of a tree and ran
away, my favorite kind of bear. I am getting a warmer hat and fleece
tomorrow as I had my first cold day yesterday. I actually hiked with hat,
gloves, jacket and light fleece on all day. Today was sunny and warm again
but real fall weather is here to stay.
Well it finally happened. The vortex of perfect scenery and perfect weather
coalesced. It seems as if all the bugs, rain, mud and flooding rivers have
finally led me to the perfect time and place. Shenandoah Park is drop dead
gorgeous. The weather has been perfect, sunny with a big wind to keep the
sweat from forming.
Today I got up in the dark and hiked into the sunrise.
Much of the hike (19 miles) was along one side of the ridge or the other, the
mountain side or the valley side. I can see why Penn gets such bad reviews
since when you are coming North you have just left "almost heaven". Anyway I
am a happy hiker. There are roadside food stands in the park so I can
continually top up.
I am about 40% thru the park and taking a night out at
the Big Meadows Lodge. Had the meatloaf dinner followed by the blackberry
ice cream pie desert. The pie was huge but I stuffed it down.
Saw my first two bears in the park, a yearling and a cub. They were hanging around near
the fast food place. I know how they felt. I also startled a Great Horned
Owl off its kill the other morning. It lifted off ponderously but with great
elegance and total silence and disappeared into the canopy of trees. When I
got to the kill I was impressed to see it had taken down a full grown gray
squirrel (Good work, big guy!). I left it to finish its feast.
Also spent the night at a hut with a 75 year old woman who was finishing up the
southern half of the AT. She was doing half, had started in GA in mid June
and would finish in Harper's Ferry in mid Oct. She weighed about 90 lbs and
had spent all her nights in shelters, carried 2 weeks worth of food at a
time and didn't use a stove. Name of Listener, from Florida.
Speaking of food, don't worry, I AM eating enough, just like to whine now and then.
Right now I am high as a kite, sorry I didn't twist Karen and Lorraine's
arms to join me on this part of the hike. This is the best!
Final note for Pat D. The glasses you bought me made it through a washer and
dryer and came out in tact and very clean!
I made it to Harper's Ferry today after my first 20 mile day. Needed to get
in by noon to get my box at the Post Office so did a 22 miles followed by an 8
mi. On the long day I ended up 15 minute short of the shelter when the rain
started and it got really dark.
Put up my trusty little tent in the rain and
today I am in town enjoying a beautiful day and staying at a hotel (hostel
full).
Harper's Ferry is a really beautiful place, all on the side of a hill
overlooking the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers with many
historic stone and brick buildings. Much here celebrating the famous
Adirondack New Yorker John Brown and his attempted slave revolt. This is
also a hot spot for black advancement with the founding of Turner College
and the birthplace of the civil rights movement at the turn of the century
with the Niagara Group meeting here. Great to be able to see the history of
the country unfolding as I travel south.
It was also fun this morning to
hike in the dark for a half hour. I saw a fox, first of the trail, his two
eyes were like tiny flashlights side by side. On to Virginia tomorrow (500
mi). I will be there awhile. Enjoying the colder weather so far. It is
great for hiking, no sweat.
Weighed myself after eating a waffle with
strawberries and cream, waiting an hour and having a burger and ice cream
and am still just over 100 lbs. Its nuts. The only thing that stops my eating
is the money it costs.
Final note, this is the area that Steve Mackey hiked
50 miles in a day. Granted there are some flat spots but still many rocks on
the trail and some good elevation ups and downs. I am in awe!
After two big days I am treating myself to a B&B in Waynesboro PA.
Yesterday I passed the half way mark of the AT and am now almost out of PA.
I head to Maryland tomorrow and Harper's Ferry by Sunday. Had my first
cold day yesterday. It was a little unsettling at first, windy and
overcast, but like all the other trail happenings I adjusted quickly, put
on my jacket and hiked on.
This Bed and Breakfast is so delightful. After
all my cheap hotels I am now in a classy "but reasonably priced" place
with themed rooms, all with private bathrooms. I am in the "Out of Africa"
room.
This lower end of Penn has some beautiful shelters all seeming brand
new, apparently the Potomac Chapter of the AT Trail Conference has plenty
of money. They should send some of it to Maine! Don't know if I will be in
Saratoga on Dec 27 but if so would love to attend the party.
I am at The Ironmaster's Mansion, a hostel near Pine Grove Furnace state
park, not far from Gettysburg. This is a really neat place. It was the
mansion of the family that owned the whole iron works and also served as a
stop on the underground railroad for many years. I got to go down via the
trap door to the basement room (very low ceiling) where the slaves hid until
they could move on to the next stop. Got here a few days early as I have
been moving right along despite some weather moving through.
Had an easy day, the day after I left Duncannon. I
was traveling through fields and farms all day with not a rock in sight.
Everything was perfect until..."The incident of The Cows".
It all started normally enough. I climbed a stile and entered a pasture with
a large herd of cows. Instead of being off in the distance a group were
gathered around a post with a white blaze on it and I thought "What a great
picture!". So, I stopped and got out my camera. I had a black plastic garbage
bag over the pack as the previous night's rain had lingered into the
morning. When I got the camera out the cows had stopped grazing and were
staring at me. Great picture! I started puttering with the pack. I put away
my jacket which I had taken off and laid down on a cow pat and put the bag
back on.
When I looked up the entire group, some two dozen cows were no more
than ten feet away from me staring at me in a not very friendly way. Not
only that but other cows were coming up from behind led by a large mostly
white cow who seemed to be a herd leader. I noticed that these were not
mature cows weighed down with full udders and the cares of motherhood but
young heifers: agile, curious and quick. Although the group in front was
between me and the exit style I moved forward trying to angle to the left
while fending the following cow off with my hiking pole. At first the cows
in front were startled. One jumped away and then they all lumbered off about
twenty feet but they immediately regrouped and began moving in what might be
called a mini stampede, in my direction. I did not run but somehow I
levitated myself to that style in a few nano seconds and was able to escape
while the group stared after me with looks of malevolent satisfaction. It
was a very eerie experience. National Enquirer should be informed. Having
not even encountered any bears or rattle snakes it seems strange to be beset
by cows but life on the trail is full of the unexpected.
Continuing my tour of the seedy hotels of Pennsylvania, I am currently
staying at The Doyle in Duncannon. A 100 year old establishment with cracked
linoleum to prove it. I just love this place. I am using the computer that
time forgot located in the bar. It is a SAMPO.
Anyway it has been a great
four days since leaving NY and getting back on the trail. I have dodged the
weather bullet, some fog and humidity but the only rain occurred after I was
safely in the shelter. As to the rocks I think that now that I am half way
thru the state I can make a fairly definitive statement about them. Only
about 10% are terrible, the large slabby, jagged kind you have to rock hop
over which slow you way down, the next 30 or 40 percent are small rubble to
imbedded rocks which are sometimes pretty bad but sometimes not so bad as
there is clear trail in between the rocks and you can step over and around
the jagged ones. The other 40 to 50 percent of the trail is just normal
stuff, sometimes just lovely grass or dirt road.
Also Penn has mile for mile
the flattest walking I've had so far. You do have to climb in and out of the
"Gaps" as opposed to the New England "Notches". These climbs can be nice
graded affairs or nasty rocky scrambles but so far the graded trails
outnumber the bad ones, between these climbs the trail is often dead flat
along the ridge for 5 or 6 miles at a go. So its all good. I made 9 miles
after dropping the car off (5 hr drive from SS) then a 15 mi day and two 17
mi and then 12 mi coming into Duncannon.
I feel strong and am closing in on
the halfway point of the trail. Another milestone, it is now Fall, which
means I am working on a three season hike. Pretty neat stuff. Stayed at the
Petersburg Mt Shelter last night, the one with the 300 rock steps down to
the spring. It was like descending into the bowls of the earth, not just
steps but down slopes as well. Naturally coming up was not so bad. I counted
steps and refused to take a rest until I hit 200, it was like the hike after
the hike but another trail must do.
It is interesting that the newer
shelters are all clapboard rather than log. They look like little barns and
have roofed areas over the picnic tables, very nice in the rain. Back to the
terrible rocks, they are often associated with view areas. Usually I am too
annoyed to notice the view but coming along the ridge and down to Duncannon
you have the most spectacular view of the Susquehanna River. The rive makes
a big horseshoe around the ridge there so there is water everywhere and the
river is very wide and beautiful. This vista matches anything I have seen on
the trail so far. I am beginning to get the feel of being not just a hiker
but a tourist of the eastern states.
I am hearing the "twang" of the south
here in Penn. Also the birds are changing. After no morning songs at all for
about a month I am hearing Caroline Wrens. Reminds of the Winter Wrens that
sang all June in Maine. Well, guys, life is good for the moment. Next update
from the Ironmasters Mansion in about 5 days.
I am back in Saratoga for a week on family business having completed 970
mi of trail to Port Clinton Penn. Entered Penn on Sep 7 having done all of
NJ in non rain. Since I won't be updating for another two weeks or so will
give a long version of my Pennsylvania experiences so far in next email.
I entered Pennsylvania on Sep 7, Labor Day, having had a rainless passage
thru NJ. I think I am the only hiker in history to traverse all New Jersey
and see NO bears (eye exam perhaps?). Anyway, I came to Penn on a happy note.
Met a teacher on the trail who aspires to be a thru hiker some day. She gave
me food and I gave her inspiration a real win,win. Every so often I meet
women who are inspired seeing an older woman doing the trail on her own.
Makes me feel that I am giving a little something back.
Well Pennsylvania,
the bad the not so bad and the good. First of all going thru the Gap was not
so great because you are walking along highway 80, however the views from
both the Jersey side (of the river) and the Penn side of the Gap are quite
spectacular. The first five miles in Penn were great. The trail was
relatively unrocky and the shelter was nice and located near a pipeline cut
in the ridge where hang gliders were attempting to ride the thermals. It was
entertaining to talk to these folks and although there was very little wind,
I got shots of a Periponter (spell?) who uses no equipment except his
parachute and just runs off the edge of the cliff while friends hold out the
shoot. I have good pictures of his take off.
Next day the sort of bad rocks
showed up. These are small pointy rocks embedded in the trail. You can step
over and around them but after a while it is trying and that day the trail
was a dry dull strait arrow ridge walk thru a line of scrub oaks with NO
water and no life other than trees and scrub fern. Ended up at a not so nice
shelter inhabited by a crazy guy with two dogs (one "unfriendly").
Fortunately there was a camp site remote from the shelter where I could set
up. The only water was a half mile walk down hill. The next day more
annoying rocks interspersed with dirt roads that were not bad. However the
day ended with a very nasty decent over a huge slag pile into Lehigh Gap. At
the bottom of this lengthy, no fun, scramble I saw the sign for the blue go
around trail (not marked at the top).
That day I also was rerouted onto a
side cut in the mountain due to a super fund cleanup of an old zinc mine
site. This rerouting of the trail turned out to be the best walking of the
hike in Penn as it was all dirt with no rocks. I wanted to add my own
attention hikers sign next to the official one which would read "Attention
hikers, as we of the Penn trail conference are a volunteer organization we
were unable to muster the staff to place pointy rocks on this rerouted 4
miles of the trail, we sincerely regret any convenience this might have
caused. "
Stayed the night at a run down hotel in Slatington. For $40 I got pick up
and return to the trail head, my own room with access to three clean
bathrooms and was within a block of a diner and pub. The owner picked me up
in a dilapidated Chrysler from the 60s with room in the trunk for 6 bodies.
I think the hotel served as residence for welfare folks but met no one scary
on my trips to the bathroom and generally had a fun time.
All was going well
when rain reared its ugly head. Due to the forecast I did a short day to a
shelter near "Bake Oven Knob". I did the difficult rock scramble up to the
Knob minus pack in the afternoon to join a group of hawk watchers who were
very entertaining. Too cloudy to see a lot but some broad wings and sharp
shins went past. Got lots of local info on the superfund site and heard
about Penn's snakes of which the locals seem proud and interested in (not
your kind of place Karen). Penn hikers embrace their rocks and snakes.
I also must say that the view was great off the Knob. Plenty of attractive
hills and farms in Penn.
The next day was a horror. Rain came in overnight
and was blowing a treat as a struggled up the Knob with full pack. Having
scouted it the day before I managed ok but the slow progress and exposure
left me drenched. I then had to keep up a good pace so as not to get
hypothermic. The trail was pretty good for a mile or two after the Knob but
then I saw looming up before me a very ugly narrow rocky spine which I had
selectively deleted from my memory banks. The Knife Edge was exactly like
the name implies. It was raining and blowing harder than ever and I REALLY
did not want to go over it. Gathered myself together, remembered Maine and
other difficult times, and forced myself over the thing. Was perhaps 20 mins
of really bad going and then I was onto good trail again.
In a few more
miles, bedraggled and getting cold I came to a road which remembered had a
B&B located within a tenth of a mile. Decided I would spend some money and
reward myself. As I hobbled over towards the sign looming in the rain I came
to realize that it was closed. No one around, no bell, no knocker. Drearily
I returned to the trail, reminded myself that I had less than 5 miles to
the shelter and pressed on. The going was good and I was there in 2 hours,
warm and dry, doing some yoga and standing mediation.
The next day did not
clear out as promised so I put on my wet boots and wet shirt and pressed on
7 and a half miles to the next shelter. The drizzly rain and wet clothes
prevented me from visiting Hawk Mountain bird sanctuary which I have wanted
to see for years (a two mile side trail) but such is weather. The next day
the world righted itself. The sun shown and I had a pleasant walk to Port
Clinton which included a trip under the freeway. Stayed in the Port Clinton
Hotel, another cheap seedy establishment, watched the Giants football game
at the bar and picked up my rental car the next day to come home.
I am now
rested and enjoying the aftermath of a welcome home dinner at Nancy and Glen
Slacks house with my friends Marsha, Thea, Peg, Ruth and Tom, Marge and
Jeannie. In the afternoon I had been treated to a sauna, bath and full body
massage at the Crystal Spa. One day your down the next day all is beautiful.
I guess that is true of all life not just the trail. Next update in two
weeks.
Arrived at Lee High Gap in Penn. I am staying at sleazy hotel with no internet.
Brief update: There has been almost two weeks of no rain. I stumbled on the Raccoon
Ridge Hawk Watch in southern NJ. Later I saw hang gliders launching from the
trail in Pennsylvania. Pennsylvania rocks are annoying, but not terrible. So far no
bad states, just bad weather, which has improved, so I'm very cheerful.
I will be home Monday the 14th with a proper update at that time.
After leaving Cathy Connor's place I was joined by friend and fellow hiker
Lorraine Mackenzie. What a great day. We crossed the Bear Mt ridge together
and then completed another twelve miles climbing 4 mountains (Bear Mt was not
the steepest or hardest). Lorraine's cheerfulness and pleasant conversation
plus the fact that she carried my food weight (about 8 lbs) made the day fly
by. We ended with a barbeque of hamburgers and salad at a state park where
she had left her car. Really, really nice day.
Then I had to face the loneliness of a long distance south hiker. My next three nights were all
alone in shelters with few if any hikers on the trail even though the weather
has been beautiful (the B doesn't work well on this computer). NY has lots of
steep rocky trails and I didn't appreciate the "lemon squeezer". These trail
attractions should be on the the trails not the other way around.
Had some trail magic along the way, particularly water which is important as these
are dry trails and we suddenly have a summer. One set of jugs were labeled
Captain V Air America with each jug a different country, Viet Nam, Laos,
Cambodia etc. It felt sort of "spooky" to get water from the CIA but it was a
hot day and I was thirsty so I salute you Captain V, hope the clandestine
thing worked for you.
Now I am at an "unofficial" hostel in Uniondale, NY.
I am hiking New Jersey, where I say my first Rhododendrons and first lizard
(bright blue tail) but traveled OVER THE line to go to this can't miss stop.
This gentleman is the retired mayor of Uniondale, a tiny town on the boarder
of NY/NJ and "The Mayor" has been taking in hikers for about three years now.
No charge and he feeds you dinner and breakfast. You have to have your
picture taken for his album and send him a copy of your victory photo and
he shows you inspirational videos to help motivate you for the hike. A
really great guy. Nice to have friendly faces around again. This is all part
of the adventure meeting these generous folks who see tired, limping, smelly
hikers and want to do something for them.
I will be heading for the notorious rocks of south Jersey north Penn. Fingers crossed that my knees
holdout. (PS for Doris, I think Mary Jo has my other sock. Fortunately I had
Lorraine ring me another pair). Went thru a great water fowl viewing area, mud
flats of the Wallkill River. My first Great Egrets and Swans of the trip.
Things are starting to feel a little southern! I may try to slack pack
tomorrow to try out the rocks with a light pack. If so will have more
computer time soon.
Will be home the week Sep 15-20 for family business and may
squeeze a few friend visits in if there is interest and availability. I want
to buy a new light weight pack while I am home, hoping to drop some weight so
I can go a little faster. Still stuck at my 1-2 mph pace depending on
conditions.
Got visiting with family last night and no time to be on the computer. I am in
Katonah, NY.
at Cathy Connor's house near Bear Mt. Bridge and meeting Lorraine
Mackenzie in less than an hour. Things have been going pretty well.
Got thru Connecticut in three days. Lots of walking along the Housatonic
River which was large and angry but cool and bug free. Glad to hear that
Steve has finished on the big K and that he enjoyed good weather in Maine
which we June hikers missed. Great place to swim at the right time of year.
I am behind schedule but still plodding on. Weather is supposed to be good
for the next four days. By the way forgot to mention that I saw my second
and third Moose of the trip (first in Baxter park) in Mass. Really
unexpected. Got a few pictures but don't have time to download.
Will try to update from "the Mayor's" in Uniondale next weekend. Sorry on time to call
folks. Got my rental car set for my trip home in Sept AND MY SLEEPING PAD
REPAIRED SO READY TO HIT THE TRAIL ONCE AGAIN.
It's nice to be hiking a "small" state and Mass went by pretty quickly.
Generally the scenery was great, the trails in good condition and the
shelters in relatively good condition. One black cloud did hang over this
state however and that cloud was a cloud of mosquitoes. I had been warned
about mosquito alley but I had no idea that the alley would last the better
part of two days and about 30 miles of trail.
First of all on a happier note I met Ruth, Peg and Nancy S. on Thursday and they served me lunch in the
parking lot, showered me with gifts and hiked into Goose Pond Cabin with me.
We all enjoyed a swim in Goose Pond and then since the cabin caretaker was
absent having been injured (I had been hearing about her great blueberry
pancakes for weeks, thank goodness I had goodies from friends to make up for
this disappointment). I hiked on some miles further on that day to get a jump
on my two big days ahead.
When I woke up and got out of my tent the next
morning the mosquito assault started. It was a particularly hot and humid
day and I was sweating like a pig covered from head to toe with long sleeves
and long pants and tons of deet supplied by Ruth. I managed to keep from
being bitten but at a price of only short breaks and making myself a
candidate for the cancer ward.
I had hoped to do extra miles to avoid a 20
mile day on Saturday but was trapped by thunderstorms and so went to plan B
which was to get up very early the next day. I was up before first light
while the thunder was still rumbling but by 6:30 when I was packed and
ready to go all was reduced to damp humid overcast. In this weather I hiked
17 miles with a constant escort of several thousand mosquitoes hovering
around my head hoping for the deet to wear off.
When I finally climbed high
enough on Everet Mt. to get away from the it started to rain. I got lost at
one point when a particularly steep slimy rock I was climbing contained an
arrow indicating a screaming left hand turn which I missed. Took a half an
hour to regroup and get back on the trail at which point It began to pour. I
was rained on for about an hour and finally arrived at an incredibly tiny
shelter already occupied by three guys just about 6 PM. Maybe not my worst
day on the trail but certainly up there. I was able with a minimum of
modesty to get into dry clothes, claim a small corner of the shelter and
pass the night with not quite enough leg room to stretch out.
Anyway I am here tonight at Doris and Tom's being cared for and fed so it all seems like
just a bad dream, but tomorrow it's back to the trail. I feel like a Spanish
explorer who keeps getting told by the north bounders, just wait until the
next state it will be a lot better El Dorado is just down the road. Of course
New York is pretty tough and NJ and Penn have their rocks but you are
really going to love Virginia.
Well to quote Ratso Rizzo (Midnight Cowboy) "I'm
walking here". I can't wait for Virginia 500 mi down the road. I want happy,
easy, sunny hiking NOW! So Connecticut be the STATE!
Next news update will be from the Bridge next Sunday. Until then everyone do
your sun dance cause mother nature hasn't gotten the message yet!
It is Monday Aug 17. IT looks like Steve is on the final week.
Congratulations Steve!! Hope the big K is a real rush for you. Soon I will
be the lone cowgirl on the range and there is a long trail ahead.
I have been much encouraged by visits from so many friends including Thea, Karen,
Joan and Lorraine who used car transport to bring the big pack to the top of
Greylock Mt and were great company on the climb. I feel like the queen on a
royal tour with devoted subjects gathering along the route all of whom can't
do enough for me.
Thanks to all of you, am loving all my treats, especially
the chocolate covered blueberries. Have experienced other trail magic now
also. Little goodies by the trail when it passes near civilization. There is
something just plain nice about these gestures which makes you feel good
about humanity.
Also the two hostels in
Dalton, MA.
are free which really blows
the mind. both men shuttle people around, wash clothes, provide showers, TV
etc. It is really amazing. The place where I am staying, Tom the manager
and one man maid, shuttle etc. society has been dong this for 30 years.
SOL has made an appearance. I'm not complaining. Dry trails are great!! But
now I do have to adjust to the heat. The gookinade from Marsha helped
yesterday which was very hot coming into town. All in all things are good in
Mass. Hope to see Ruth in a few days and swim in Goose Pond. Then I will be
moving quickly out of home territory towards my NYC connections starting
with Doris in north Ct (Doris see separate email).
Hope the sun keeps it up for a while I was afraid I had missed summer altogether. Thanks also to Pat
and Jayne for their friendship and support on the trail. I am inspired!
Georgia here I come!
Well things have certainly turned around in the world of AT hiking. The
slings and arrows of outrageous weather/mountains are left behind and I have
found a kinder, gentler state in which to hike. I have always had a special
place in my heart for Vermont as many childhood vacations were spent here,
so when I walked into Norwich, VT
just over the boarder and saw the queen Ann's
lace and chicory growing together on the road side I was filled with
nostalgia and felt like crying for joy. Suddenly I was hiking through
pastures past lovely old barns and aging farmhouses looking at a rolling
landscape with a trail carpeted with pine needles not granite.
Since then I have encountered quite a bit of mud and some less nice going but NOTHING
compared to the Volkswagen sucking mire of the Maine trails or the viciously
steep slopes of NH. So all is well. Plus I have had visitations from Pat Desbien.
and Jayne Bouder, which have been delightful. Tomorrow I meet with Lorraine and
Karen for a hike into
Stratton Pond Lean To.
Haven't been able to combine warm weather with swimming but there is still hope.
Didn't have my camera on the day I saw probably my only purple fringed orchids of the hike but oh
well.
I am now in Black Capped chickadee country again and among the
deciduous trees which if not old growth are at least mature, tall and very
elegant. The Sugar Maple is top dog here and still seems healthy while the
Beech is on the decline with most of the trees diseased. It is weird after
coming down from the heights of NH to see Asters and Goldenrod blooming and
realize that summer is hurrying past.
Speaking of hurrying, I am trying to pick up the pace. It is a long way to Georgia. I have moved from snail to
tortoise and hope to eventually get to rabbit. Hope to be in Mass by next
Friday.
PS for bird lovers, I think I saw a northern three toed woodpecker.
The light was bad but the behavior was right and the size! Next update from Durham Mass.
Here's an update for mom via phone. She's in great shape and back on
schedule, By Sunday she'll be at a Hostel in
Manchester,
Manchester, VT
and after that
is free to hike with anyone from the local ADK chapters who would like,
just call her phone and leave a message. 518-935-3353. She seems to have
really hit her stride, and made up five days in less than two weeks.
Love to all, EJ
Today is a different day for me. The AT passes directly through
Hanover, NH
on the way to the Connecticut River and VT. I am doing a walk thru and hope
to be in a shelter on the VT side this afternoon.
Currently in the Dartmouth
Library where the computers are by the door and free and open to all.
Nothing big to report. I am feeling better and have an apatite. I restocked
at the CO OP and had to control my buying for weight as much as anything.
As it is pouring rain and looks to be raining all day I am going from dry place
to dry place. Stopped at an outfitter and got more esbit cubes for the stove
then went to a barber to get a haircut and now the library.
It was a tough three days getting here. I am trying to increase my distance but still am
traversing some medium sized mountains and the 14 miles yesterday was really
hard. Today will be an easy day and I am hoping to cash in on an invitation
a couple I met in the Huts gave me to stay overnight at their house tomorrow.
I am much, much better than I was in Maine and if I am still
whining a bit it's just the darn rain. It keeps the trails muddy and the
bugs are a constant. Lets hope for drought in August. Bring on the heat!
Well great news. The whites are history. I still have 40 mi in NH but the big mountains are done and I am feeling good about myself.
I by dumb luck met Steve Mackey on the trail. He has been coming at light speed but I was helpless in the huts with no internet
and a dead cell. Anyway we met north of Moosealachie. Just had about a half hour to exchange info but at least we connected.
He looks great if a bit thin and has a good positive outlook. I don't envy him the Whites but I'm sure he will race thru as he has all along.
Well I have a love/hate relationship with the White Mts. I have many good memories of doing these peaks with friends and on club
outings over the last 20 yrs but that is the problem, I've DONE them and some I hoped never to climb again. It just seemed like
there was this big wall in the way keeping me from my appt in Georgia. However, great things happened here. You have heard from
Lorraine about our famous meeting. It was the most delightful moment of the trek. Friendly conversation, dinner out and companionship
at Joe Dodge Lodge. Beyond that Lorraine volunteered to take my tent etc to the Lafayette Campground so I could do the heart of the
Pres Range with a half weight pack. As the car dealer said, this was HUGE.
I was able to handle Madison (very intense climb ending in a mile of sharp pointy rocks with white blazes splashed here and there)
and got to the hut by mid afternoon. Sun the next day until I got up on the ridge where it was blowing like crazy. The clouds closed
in as I approached Washington. The wind was kicking 30 mph with gusts well into the 40s. This is what passes for a good day on the big W.
Saw people in the fog with shorts and skimpy jackets coming from god knows where but I hiked in a hat mittens, gortex jacket and down
vest and was never hot.
Still no problem getting to Lakes by mid afternoon. Then a short jaunt down to Mitsva where I met another ADKer Kendra Pratt and her husband.
They had been on the lookout for me. Makes me feel like a celebrity (Paris Hilton move over). More happy conversation about home. Kendra is
also a friend of Katy Gill a hiking mentor for this trek.
After Mitzva I was on to Zealand. This was my second 14 mile day of the hike so I was very proud. It is the easiest 14 mi in the Whites
with lots of flat walking around Zealand but I still averaged 2 mph and was there mid afternoon which was good as it rained all afternoon
and night. The rain gods are still with us. A few days of sun then it's back to the gloom.
Met a British hiker from Bristol named Owen. Two facts about him. He was camping at Harriman Park in New York of all places when the campsite
was hit by lightning. A friend got a glancing hit and was temporarily paralyzed on one side of the body. He recovered and is well on the way
to finishing but scary non the less. The second item is much lighter. The light hiking sneakers that everyone but me wears are subject attack
by roots and Owen was headed into town to get a new set of sneakers. Then he say these two sisters Irma and Sonya pull out a big roll of duck
tape to repair their daughter/niece sneaker. He had never seen duck tape! Seems impossible but there it is. He was enchanted and soon had his
sneaker wrapped in the silver stuff.
Onto Galeshead and then another big day, 14 mi to the Lafayette Campground, this time over Lafayette and Garfield and Abraham, BIG TOUGH DAY!
I dragged into the campground at 6 to find to my delight a chocolate ice cream, Reeses, chocolate cake for my birthday with cards and presents
from all my buddies (Joan, Lorraine, Karen, Marge, Ruth, Nancy, Jeanie and Peg). Thank you all so much for thinking of me. Also I know Lorraine
orchestrated this so doubly thanks to you, L! Of course it rained that night and I* had to pack up my tent in the rain but what the heck that's
life on the road.
Lonesome Lake was my last hut. Too rainy and cold to swim but a short hike to shakedown the BIG Pack as I had my tent back and resupply.
But the Kinsman's are in the bag and the big Moose and I am on a roll.
I was on the coast of Maine for a number of days when I saw Jean's email about staying in the huts of the White Mountains.
I was able to find out through the Appalachian Mountain Club what nights she was staying where. (For you non-hikers, the
huts are miles from anywhere and high in the mountains.) But luck was on my side and the night of the day I was coming
back home through NH, Jean was staying at the Lodge in
Pinkham Notch, NH,
right next to the road!
I figured out the trail she was hiking down, strapped on my hiking boots at about 11:30 Friday morning and started hiking
up the Wild Cats trail to meet her on her way down from Carter Notch hut. (The excitement of surprising her on the trail
helped to mellow the cursing of the difficulty of this trail and memories of having cursed it years before on a previous
Whites adventure with "One More Mountain Marcia"!)
Need I say that Jean was just about taken away with surprise when we did meet up a few hours after I started my hike up.
What a wonderful moment for both of us! She was beside herself with delight to have someone from "home" to walk with
her for a bit. We chatted all the way back down and I am relieved to report to everyone that I think she is doing just fine,
not an easy journey, but she is not suffering as some of you may picture her!
We got to the Lodge at about 3 pm, showered (Jean with the luxury of my lemon soap and shampoo) and we headed
into Gorham to do laundry and have dinner. Jean is trying to be conscious of her eating but has not been ravenous in
spite of all those miles. She looks to have lost some weight but is not emaciated! She's got muscles in her legs!
I spent the night at the lodge, we got our own room which was very cool. We stayed up talking until about 9:30, late for Jean!
Up early the next morning with the worry of bad weather for an exposed ridge she had to traverse on her way to Madison
Hut. Breakfast and on the trail a bit after 7. The weather was holding. I hiked with her until 9:30 am, both of us enjoying
each others company immensely. I think the weather may have held for the rest of her day on the trail and not deteriorated
as predicted. I cannot put into words my feeling of joy having had his time with her, she calls me a Trail Angel, a term used
on the AT for helpers of the thru hikers.
She has many wonderful tales to tell along with the stories of the hardships of the trail and the nasty weather. As EJ said,
she will be camping in a state campground on July 23 in
Franconia Notch, NH,
I took her tent and other items not needed for the
hut section of the Whites and brought them to this campground which lightened her load a bit for the next number of days.
That with two meals each day at the huts and a bed to sleep in each night and reduced miles all should serve her well for
this section of the trail.
I thought that your chapter members would like to know that I ran into Jean Holcomb on her Appalachian Trail hike on June 20th. She was at the AMC Mizpah Hut just north of Mount Jackson on the Appalachian Trail. She was taking a little break from tenting by staying at the huts in the White Mountains. Unfortunately we were headed in different directions so we did not actually hike together. She looked great and was in good spirits.
This is EJ updating for mom by phone. She won't be near a computer for a few weeks so I'll be updating for her over the phone. She's due at Lafayette campground, Franconia Notch, NH on July 23, and Glencliff, NH around July 27th. The weather is much better, its not raining all day, every day. She's dialed back her distances to around seven miles a day to save her knees, and is otherwise healthy and fit. Junco's and White Throated Sparrows are the main bird life in the area, and there are lots alpine flowers, Cotton Grass, Wild cranberry, Yellow Avers and such. Its her birthday next Saturday, FYI.
Am going to try to give this account as an attachment since keep losing it on the computer. My last
two days on the trail were pure hell. After avoiding the Carr basset River which was/is in flood
we made it to the Lean To before rain started two days ago. However by early afternoon it was raining
and rained heavily all night.
I got up early because Sue from Stratton Motel had said the next two stream crossings could also
be had in high water. The maps did not indicate this and we took hope from the term "stream"
as opposed to river. Well, by the time I got to the first stream with the boys (Clown Shoe,
Plus 1 and John) close behind, it looked like the Colorado. The river was frothy that any slip
would have meant drowning. We managed to avoid this first hazard because there was a dirt road
close by that had a bridge over the river so we were able to bushwhack back to the trail. Then we
had to cross the wretched thing again, although this time is was broken by an island and a few
careful hops and jumps got us by. However the big "stream" when we got there was terrifying.
It was literally a raging torrent which about 10 ft, below the ford fed into a cascade which 20 ft
further on was the emptying point of a huge waterfall. It was completely impassible so we had no
option but to set up our tents and wait for the river to go down.
As I got out my tent it started to rain again (it had stopped for a few hours). We ended
up staying overnight. The next morning the river was only very scary, not impassible. I watched and
worried for an hour waiting for the guys to get up and get packed then made Clown Shoe (the biggest)
take me across with me clutching his arm and each of us poling with the free hand.
He was feeling the cold of the water and trying to hurry across while I hobbled along too scared to
be cold. Once across few faced a day of 3,500 ft of elevation gain, 1000 more than we would have
had if we could have crossed the river and gotten to the next Lean To the day before.
Needless to say the whole thing was done in the mist over steep slippery rocks with the two
miles above tree line a misery of wind turning the mist into horizontal rain.
No views of course in this spectacular area. I had some black moments and started singing to
keep my spirits up (Yesterday, Blue Moon, Smoke Gets In Your Eyes, Johnny McLeod, Gypsy Rover).
In the middle of The Twelve Days of Christmas a
female figure loomed out of the rain. It was the trail runner. She was pleased to see a woman thru hiker.
We bonded for a few minutes but were driven apart by the appalling weather. When I finally got off the
peaks and got down part way, I was met with more terrible washed out trails and boots sucking bogs.
I was so tired I started falling down (although artfully without breaking or bending anything) and
finally stumbled into the Lean To after 11 hrs in soaking wet boots, covered in mud. No one who isn't a
prison escapee or refugee should do that to their feet!
This morning I was unable to call my hostel, no cell coverage, and when I reached the road hiked two
miles in the wrong direction. Started thumbing in desperation and finally got a ride in the back of
a truck by a woman who will always have a place in my heart. I am bathed and have had a hardy meal
so feel restored but I still haven't seen a hint of the sun. I would gladly sacrifice a virgin
if that would help. Hopefully things will be better when Steve gets here. This could be a wonderful
place if it would ever STOP RAINING!! Anyway off to pick up my new dry boots thanks to Karen and hoping
for better days in my last week in Maine.
Next update in a week or so.
Coming out of Rangeley I reached the Sabbath Pond Lean To after a terrible day in the rain where
I fell in a bog, ala Hound of the Baskervilles, large enough to swallow my ski pole, had to probe for it.
Anyway when I got dry and in my bag I just didn't recover. Felt cold, sick, weak and my stomach refused
to consider food. Fortunately I was three miles from a road and a nice 17 year old
from Ann Arbor Mi (Gigantic) accompanied me to the road the next day where I called good old
Bob from Gull Pond Lodge to come at get me. He took me to the clinic (day before the 4th weekend) where
I got service and a lovely lady doctor told me there was nothing major wrong with me except dehydration.
Zeroed at GAL where the fireworks were cancelled on the 3rd and 4th due to rain. Watched the NYC
fireworks on TV. Anna, put it on your calendar. Next year I am coming to the city to watch the fireworks
from your roof. Would have stayed another day but the next day, overcast, windy and dreary was the
"good day" of the next three so soldiered on gradually getting my stomach in gear. Started drinking mucho
water with mucho pee breaks as a result, but so be it. Next stop was the lodge that does dog sled
tours in the winter. 42 dogs on site. Karen, you would have loved it! It was a beautiful place to watch birds.
Saw first humming bird of the summer and rose breasted grosbeaks at feeding. Stomach still not great but a
lovely place (no internet) and charming hostess. I was the only guest so had a bathroom to myself
which was great.
Part of my stomach problems could have centered on my last great Maine challenge, the Moosic Notch.
Fortunately I was able to plan well. Tented outside the notch and made that my day. I was followed by a
young couple who helped me over the worst parts. The notch is a mile of Volkswagen and up size boulders
stuffed into a narrow gully. One has to crawl under and over them sometimes taking off pack.
For young studs a fun hour or less experience. For this old lady, three exhausting hours.
I can't maneuver the pack at all well off my back so really needed help.
With the notch done a huge load of anxiety has been lifted from my back. I met camp kids and local hikers
(with some sunny days, real people are starting to hike) who were very impressed with this old lady hiking
to GA. I think I am it for my category going south this year. So I am reinvigorated and determined to press
on knees willing. I will be going very slow in the Whites but hope to pick up speed in Vermont.
Thanks for all well wishes (thanks for the phallus, Doris) being thrown off computer.
love to all,
Firstly my email seems to be fixed. Had to do with my forwarding photos to Jinn and then all my mail
going to her instead of me. Also as to the addresses. I seem to be able to send to one page of names
at a time, so last time page 2 got my email but not page 1. Just me not being very computer savvy.
Anyway, I made it over the Bagels somehow and am here resting my knees and enjoying the sights in
Stratton. I had some goo days and a bad day since coming out of Currituck. First of all I finally found
someone who hikes at my pace, a crazy, ex-con recovering alcoholic who talks a blue streak.
Naturally he is not my choice of a partner on the trail so you can imagine how delighted I was to find
him at my hotel when I came down for breakfast prior to returning to the trail. Well here is a trail magic story.
So I am trying to dodge this guy but when the shuttle person comes I can't bring myself to sneak out and
call to crazy James that the shuttle is going to the trail. So he gets in the car and the next thing I know
he wants to be taken to a grocery store first. This is where we have the catch the ferry over the Kennebec.
Now I am seething because I had a late start to begin with since the ferry doesn't go till 9 and we are
going to the store. Well anyway you who got my last email may remember that I lost my reading glasses and
was told the nearest drug store was 20 mi and they couldn't take me there. So we stop at this postage stamp
general store so C James can get his supplies and what do you know they have reading glasses.
So trail magic? who knows.
Anyway in order to lose this guy I did my first 14 mi day on mostly flat ground. It felt good.
Then I made the mistake of doing a 11 miler the next day over little Bigelo. It rained and I was heading
to a campsite. Had to set up in the rain. Some how by sheer force of will got the tarp up over the tent on a
tent platform and managed to have a dry night but it was a miserable long very wet day.
The next day paid off because the sun came out for a while and I climbed the two peaks of the Bs
in good order having divided the ascent into two 2000 ft. climbs. Didn't quite make it to the Lean To before
a huge thunderstorm but was warm and dry once I got there so another good day.
So now I have a day of rest but frankly am dreading Crocker Mt and the other peaks I face tomorrow.
The knees still ache every day and the weather is not promising. Will just have to see how it goes.
No more pink/white lady slippers but now seeing twin flowers. Also saw a Canada warbler today.
The first warbler I have been able to indentify by sight. Still no Moose just lots of mosquitoes.
Happy Summer, Next report from Rangely (thanks Karen for sending the new boots!)
Well I made it to my next off trail location, Cataract Mt. Please forgive all
misspelling and other flubs as I have lost my reading glasses and am miles from
anywhere I can get them replaced. Yes as things have gotten rainier I am
starting to lose things right and left, including the lovely wool had from
Nancy, my hand sanitizer, Map 4 of Me and numerous other small articles. I still
have my sunglasses which are just dad weight in Me as it is always raining,
about to rain or cloudy because it has just rained.
Although I have traveled
thru a spectacularly beautiful part of the trail (all Me so far really stunning)
my attention as been at my feet. I am creeping down mountains working my way
over slippery rocks then plunging into knee deep boot sucking swamps. Two days
ago I did a two big fords alone in the rain. I sang "The river is wide" while
carefully poling my way across. So far about a dozen "named" fords, just another
way to keep wet if the rain hasn't penetrated. The ferns and moss here are like
trees and bushes.
Seeing the last of the lady slipper orchids as they are
starting to shrivel. Still mostly white ones. My bird friends are always with me
particularly the thrushes and winter wrens. Funny NO chickadees. Maybe they have
become true feeder birds. Another surprise, many Northern Parulas. There were
reports of a swooping attack hawk on the trail at one of the lean tos. I heard
it but unfortunately didn't see it as it was raining at the time. I am sure it
must be a goshawk from the description of its behavior.
Well anyway, the trail
is tough, but I am still in the game. I am undoubtedly the slowest hiker on the
trail (in a crowd of mostly young men). I am the energizer snail, still going
but very slowly. Lost my buddies Breton and Graham, brothers who started on
Kathadin the same day as me. I knew they would leave me behind once they got
their sea legs (carrying way too much weight) but was happy to have their help
on a particularly nasty ford where B came back across and carried my pack. They
were rock hopping underwater with a racing current and laughing while I was
wondering if we should make a raft.
But I am now dry clean and have warmed my
knees in the hot tub. Joy Oh joy! Tomorrow I will head out in the drizzle to
start on the Bigelos, my first 4000 peaks. That should tell me if my knees are
cup to the challenge. All my other hurts including bad shoulder seem to by under
control but the knees are whining a lot. I am not alone in this. Next stop
Rangely in 4-5 days, a little behind schedule already but just can't improve on
the 10 miles per day cycle.
Oh yes, yesterday being the summer solstice, was National Hike
Naked Day. Who knew! Naturally it being Maine no one did. What about your end of
the trail, Steve, any participants (can't find question mark). Will sign off
now. Happy summer all!
Jean Holcomb plans to go SOUTH on the Appalachian Trail.
As many of you know, Steve Mackey, hike leader and long time member of GF/Saratoga ADK is forging his way speedily north on the Appalachian Trail.
By this reading he should be through Virginia. I had planned to start a little later and mosey along behind him getting possibly as far as New York
and in essence "walking home". A rotator cuff injury followed by frozen shoulder in January put me on the shelf.
After much weeping and gnashing of teeth I decided to shoot for a southbound start in early June. After two months of aggressive, often brutal,
physical therapy the broken wing is flapping again if a little less effectively than its opposite. As this piece goes to the publisher
I am scheduled to begin by climbing Katahdin on June 5. If for some reason the mountain is not open I may skip it and start at the bottom.
In any case I am finally off.
I will be sending out emails when I can to Heidi, Pat Desbiens and Jayne Bouder (my house sitter)
so news of me will be filtering in. I hope to meet Steve on the trail sometime. At this rate it will probably be in Vermont but be
that as it may I'm on an adventure not a race. I don't know my final destination. Only my body and the weather will let me know when
to stop. Hope to have a program put together by next winter/spring to share my adventures!
Wish me luck and dry conditions in Maine. We can't wish away the black flies so I will just have to learn to tolerate them.
My trail name is Calamity Jean!